Having problems with your Refrigerators ?

I have a GE Top Freezing Refrigerator. The model is GTS12BBMBRWW, if that helps. The refrigerator is constantly leaking. This is because ice constantly accumulates on the top wall of the refrigerator and then slightly melts and drips water into the refrigerator. Also, the fan (or maybe some sort of motor) in the top left of the refrigerator is obviously working really hard and makes a really loud buzzing type sound. These problems started at the same time so I know they are connected.


Answers :

The drainhole for the defrost water is frozen . When this happens , sometimes the excess water , flows to where the fan is , makeing a rapid clicking noise , or stopping the fan completely . Also , could be the glass defrost heater is busted , not letting the glass outer heater shell , dispense appropriate heat to defrost the drain . To access these parts , both mullion heater screws on each side , have to be removed . After removing the mullion strip , unplug both wires connected to the mullion heater , and set aside . May have to use a screwdriver to pry the mullion strip to the side to remove 1 side at a time . After removeing , use a screwdriver to pry both edges of the plastic liner inwards to clear the sides , then use a screwdrive to lift both sides slightly to clear the mullion strip mounts and pull the lower panel out . If you feel ice back by the fan blade , pull up un the fan mount and the fan and motor will lift up , If you see ice at the bottom of the pan below the coils , use hot water or hair dryer to thaw . Down the center of the coils (from side to side ) , remove the metal strip covering the glass heat rod . Useing a mirror , inspect the glass heater to see if it is in pieces , and if so , use needle nose pliers to remova all glass . If heater glass is broken , replace with Pt # WR51X419 . Since this heater is above the drain hole , replacing will solve the problem .
Thanks for listing the complete model number.
\015\012Look behind your refrigerator for a tube which comes out at about the level of the top of the fresh foods section, right in the middle, and runs down to the compressor area. Remove the tube, clean it out, clean out any blockages you see in the hole you can now see in the back of the refrig, then replace the drain. It looks like your model has exterior condenser coils on the back. The tube is behind those coils, comming right out of the back wall.
\015\012Any blockage / restriction in this drain will cause the defrost water to stay inside the freezer and eventually find it's way into the refrigerator section. (after builing up enough ice to cause the fan blade to hit on it, making alot of noise, or even possibly block the fan blade from turning inside the freezer) If you don't want to dissmantle the entire floor of the freezer to manually defrost the entire refrigerator, you may have to unplug the refrig for an extended time to let it defrost itself. This would take up to several days. It is also possible to speed this up by manually putting your refrigerator into a defrost cycle, although one defrost cycle would most likely not be enough to completely defrost your refrigerator at this time anyway. (when I repair these, I put them in manual defrost and dissassemble to fully melt all the frost and ice off the coils, which are located in the floor of the freezer section of your model) (the defrost control is located at the back center top of the refrigerator section, and has a plastic slotted peg which can be SLOWLY turned with a slot blade screwdriver until it clicks once, resulting in the refrigerator stopping while it turns on the defrost system. It will advance out of defrost in about a half hour. Refrig must be plugged in and turned on for defrost to work.)
\015\012Hope that is enough of a suggestion for you.

Repair Help & Product Troubleshooting for Refrigerators
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