Having problems with your Refrigerators ?

I have a Kenmore side by side refrigerator model # 253.52322200. It starts up and cools fine for awhile, maybe 4 to 5 hours. Then it stops cooling. I think it runs until it reaches the correct temperature then the compressor shuts off and wont restart. There is a loud buzz, which I guess is the overload relay, that buzzes for about 10 seconds then stops. Then it will do it again about 10 minutes later. At this point I have to shut the freezer off and wait about 4 hours before the compressor wil


Answers :

First, you need to determine what the problem is. Remove the rear cover\015\012in the freezer, and check for COMPLETE coil coverage (of ice). If so,\015\012the defrost system has failed. If not, then problem is in the sealed\015\012system, and should still be under warranty. :)


You have to visually look at the coils BEFORE you defrosted them. You\015\012still know nothing about this problem. However, if there was ice\015\012forming on those coils, replace both the heater and bi-metal. If that\015\012doesn't solve the problem, the board will need replacing. It has an ADC\015\012system. :)
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Unplug the fridge, and remove the rear bottom panel. Remove the white\015\012plastic start device on the compressor, and shake it. If it rattles,\015\012replace it (WITH THE EXACT REPLACEMENT/SUB - NOT A 3in1 HARD START\015\012KIT). If the relay is ok, the compressor itself is finished. :)
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More than likely the main control board has failed. It is located\015\012behind the metal panel, on the rear left of the unit. I know of NO way\015\012to actually check it. When you replace it, the new board must be\015\012programmed properly, or it will not work.



you mean the "motor" is the compressor? If so, and there is no ice\015\012forming on the rear freezer wall, the unit has developed a sealed\015\012system leak. Very expensive - if it is NOT under warranty, time for a\015\012new fridge.


You might have burnt the start winding out by connecting it directly\015\012(for 5 minutes). Some compressors (variable speed) cannot have the 3in1\015\012hard start kits installed. If the wires are connected properly, and\015\012there is voltage at the kit, the compressor is finished. :)
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During defrost, no motors should be running. If the compressor itself\015\012is running, but not cooling, the unit has developed a sealed system\015\012leak (bad compressor,refrigerant leak), and is NOT economical to repair\015\012(leaks CANNOT be fixed whatsoever). I hope this helps! :)
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it is possible that it might be in a defrost. I'm a little curious to unplug it to move it back
Hi, It sounds to me like the relay over load switch is going bad. When the relay is buzzing, do the lights in the house dim? This happens when the compressor is going bad because it pulls to man amps. The overload sounds like the issue.
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\015\012Vic

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I have a Kenmore side by side refrigerator model # 253.52322200. It starts up and cools fine for awhile, maybe 4 to 5 hours. Then it stops cooling. I think it runs until it reaches the correct temperature then the compressor shuts off and wont restart. There is a loud buzz, which I guess is the overload relay, that buzzes for about 10 seconds then stops. Then it will do it again about 10 minutes later. At this point I have to shut the freezer off and wait about 4 hours before the compressor wil


First, you need to determine what the problem is. Remove the rear cover\015\012in the freezer, and check for COMPLETE coil coverage (of ice). If so,\015\012the defrost system has failed. If not, then problem is in the sealed\015\012system, and should ... Refrigerators

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